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Pumpkin & Cheese Boyos

Boyos de kalavasa – rodanchas

For the Sephardim of Rhodes, our savory pastry repertoire is unimaginable without boyos de kalavasa, our beloved pumpkin filo-like coiled pastries. Filled with pumpkin, a medley of Greek cheeses, and the warming spices of cinnamon and cloves, they are a true holiday favorite. Handcrafted with a Sephardic-style filo, dough immersed in oil, then stretched by hand until paper thin, boyos take their distinctive coiled or “rose” form, much like the Turkish gülböreği. This rose shape recalls Rhodes itself, known as the “Island of Roses,” Isola de les Rose under Italian rule.

Also called rodanchas, boyos de kalavasa are traditionally offered at the New Year table with almonds in the filling and a dusting of confectioner’s sugar and cinnamon to auger a sweet year. Though the age-old recipe with yeast may seem daunting, it is easier than it appears and for a quicker version, store-bought filo works beautifully. Enjoy boyos de kalavasaat your festive tables.

Ingredients

Pumpkin or butternut & cheese filling:

2¼ pounds (1 kg) pumpkin (or butternut, which I prefer using), peeled, seeded and cut into small chunks

1 teaspoon superfine (castor) sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

a pinch of ground cloves

1 cup grated kefalotyri, kashkaval or other sharp hard cheese

½ cup feta cheese, crumbled

½ cup toasted almonds, chopped


For the dough:

¼ teaspoon instant (quick rise) dry yeast

¼ teaspoon granulated sugar

1½ cups water, room temperature

3¼ cups (390 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

½ teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, room temperature

½ cup (115 g) melted butter mixed with ½ cup olive oil in a small bowl, for brushing and topping

Mix ½ cup of all-purpose flour mixed with 1 tablespoon finely grated sharp hard cheese, for sprinkling

1 beaten egg, for brushing

2 tablespoons confectioner’s (icing) sugar mixed with ½ teaspoon cinnamon, for dusting


You will need:

1 rectangular dish, 12 x 9½ inch (30 x 24 cm) with enough vegetable oil to cover about 28 balls of dough.

Preparation

  1. Prepare the filling: Bring about 1½ inch (3.75 cm) of water to the boil. Place the pumpkin/butternut chunks in a steaming basket inside the pot. Cover and let steam for 30 minutes, or until tender. Drain, then place the pumpkin in a clean tea towel and squeeze out excess liquid. Mash the pumpkin into a bowl. (I like to use a potato ricer). Add the sugar, salt, spices, cheeses, almonds and mix thoroughly.


  2. Make the dough: In a small bowl dissolve the yeast and sugar in the water and stir together, cover with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 5-7 minutes, until foamy.


  3. In a large bowl add the flour with the salt. Work the butter into the flour with your fingertips. Mound the flour then make a well. Add the water and olive oil mixture and mix with your hands until a sticky dough begins to form. Transfer the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for about 5 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic, adding a little flour if still sticky.


  4. Divide the dough into 1 ounce (30 gram) pieces. Roll each piece into a smooth ball between your palms. Immerse the balls of dough in lines left to right, into the prepared dish of oil. Let rest in the oil at room temperature until all the balls of dough have been placed in the oil.


  5. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.


  6. Take one ball of dough at a time, starting with the ones first placed in the oil. Gently place one of the balls in the center of the work surface. Using your fingertips of both hands, press the dough outwards into a round shape as much as possible. Then, working around the flattened dough, gently lift and stretch the edges outwards evenly with your fingertips until paper thin and about 12 inch (30 cm) in diameter. Move around the edge of the dough so that the dough is stretched evenly (When stretching the dough, do not worry if it tears or holes open - they will not be noticed once the pastry is folded).


  7. Brush lightly with melted butter and oil mixture. Cut off any thick edges with a sharp knife and discard. Sprinkle lightly with the prepared flour and cheese mixture.


  8. Spread about 2 tablespoons of pumpkin and cheese filling into a line about 1 inch from the bottom edge of the stretched dough. Starting from the bottom, roll around the filling creating one long cylinder up to the edge of the dough. Then coil into a spiral shape with the seam-side down. Repeat until all the pastry and filling are used up.


  9. Brush the tops lightly with the remaining butter and oil mixture. Then, using a small sieve, dust with the confectioner’s sugar and cinnamon mixture.


  11. Transfer the filled pastries to the baking sheets, leaving a little space between them. Bake for 30-40 minutes until golden brown and crisp. Transfer to a wire rack. Serve warm

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